Just another Green 98 TJ Sahara
- Thread starter Twilliamson
- Start date
I have a couple decisions to make. I would like some input.
1) The front axle was previously setup with a CJ style locking hub setup, That was removed before i purchased the axle. It has splined chromos on the stub side. The easiest thing would be to grab some chromo sub shafts and convert back to unit bearings. BUT wasn't sure if there was a economically comparable option for putting locking hubs on a D44. Looks like you might could do a WJ conversion and get bigger brakes as well, but that swap doesn't seem as well documented anymore.
2) Body Lift - Looking at everything in the instructions and just general knowledge, looks like I'm going to need a 1inch body lift to make everything work "better". This is a multi-part question.
1) The front axle was previously setup with a CJ style locking hub setup, That was removed before i purchased the axle. It has splined chromos on the stub side. The easiest thing would be to grab some chromo sub shafts and convert back to unit bearings. BUT wasn't sure if there was a economically comparable option for putting locking hubs on a D44. Looks like you might could do a WJ conversion and get bigger brakes as well, but that swap doesn't seem as well documented anymore.
2) Body Lift - Looking at everything in the instructions and just general knowledge, looks like I'm going to need a 1inch body lift to make everything work "better". This is a multi-part question.
- The Teraflex kit i got came with a 5/8 spacer that is to be used as a motor mount lift. I'm cool with that, as the other 3rd party full replacement lifts seem to induce a lot of engine vibes into the jeep. Should I NOT use the shim spacer for the motor mount lift?
- The Teraflex kit also included a plate for relocating the transfer case shifter linkage. I have NEVER had a issues with the t-case popping out of gear before, but i understand I'm about to change all the factory geometry. Order a cable shifter right?
- Body lifts. I had been looking at all of the different puck style lifts when I ran across the Daystar KJ04508BK 1" Polyurethane Body Mount Lift Kit. This kit replaces the factory bushings and does not reuse them, one piece design. Comments?
1. The WJ conversion is well documented, its all factory parts, but makes you run a spacer or WJ knuckles. It gives you high steer which is nice, but means you need to relocate your tracbar.
2. Don't do a MML with a poly bushin, spacers under the factory mount are better at isolating vibration.
Same answer goes for the BL, i would avoid poly to keep the vibrations down.
2. Don't do a MML with a poly bushin, spacers under the factory mount are better at isolating vibration.
Same answer goes for the BL, i would avoid poly to keep the vibrations down.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/wj-brake-swap-cheap-260815/
One possible plus, can you run the WJ unit bearing also and then have 5 on 5 alreadY?
One possible plus, can you run the WJ unit bearing also and then have 5 on 5 alreadY?
Yeah, I looked into that but I didn't want to change my trackbar and steering. In Tripp's case he'll be modifying all that anyway so it would make sense.
I'll add, you're still going to need a wheel spacer instead of a wheel adapter unless your new wheels are the backspacing you need without spacers, so consider that with tj vs wj bearings...
I'll add, you're still going to need a wheel spacer instead of a wheel adapter unless your new wheels are the backspacing you need without spacers, so consider that with tj vs wj bearings...
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As discussed, I have the majority of 2 body lifts. When I do the raised body mounts you could have the complete plastic puck one or mix and match aluminum and plastic. I'm just using 5 of the aluminum packs.
If budget isn't a huge concern, I'd just go ahead and order a cable. Especially with yours not being completely rust free underneath, you're going to fight with that tub bracket.
If budget isn't a huge concern, I'd just go ahead and order a cable. Especially with yours not being completely rust free underneath, you're going to fight with that tub bracket.
I think the conversation around the body lift is to retain the factory body isolation mounts and add a spacer or replace the body isolators with taller ones. I think @97TJGUZZY may be onto something with keeping rubber involved whenever possible. the belly up pan kit comes with a a shim to lift the engine, I would assume its enough to make the skid fit. It won't be completely flat, but exponentially higher up (marketing claims 2-2.75 inches. .
Finally got enough time to get started on my transformation. @97TJGUZZY , @porterrss , @LBarr2002 came over this weekend and we got started. Old axles are out, body lift on and more parts ordered.
The jeep is officially in my way, and has to get done.
The jeep is officially in my way, and has to get done.
So a little status update. The suspension has all been installed, The rear is complete minus a driveshaft and bleeding the brakes. The front is hung on the control arms, but still ALOT of work left to do. Decided while i was rebuilding/upgrading to do the WJ knuckle conversion and a PSC Hydro assist. So lots of "figuring out" still left to do with the steering and track bar.
This was before getting the control arms set, its about perfectly centered.
This was before getting the control arms set, its about perfectly centered.