Just another Green 98 TJ Sahara
- Thread starter Twilliamson
- Start date
8.8 Project
Friday, @LBarr2002 and I set out to install the Artec Truss on my 8.8 (that he pulled from pull-a-part for me) and has been sitting im my shop since like 2015....
I prepped the 8.8 by removing all the brackets in advance. We put the axle on a table and preheated and welded the Tubes to the Center Section. We wrapped them in fire blankets and a heavy moving blanket to let them cool slowly.
Them while the axle was cooling, we extracted the Turdy5 and all control arms. (Full adjustable Metal Cloaks would be going back in)
We assembled the Artec truss, and man, is that one slick piece of engineering.
Got it all fitted (minor trimming needed). We then tack welded the truss to the tubes enough for a test fit
Test Fit was fine, no real issues. Back on the table for final welding being certain to move around and not put too much heat in one location.
Coat of paint, and let it dry. We pretty much left it at that for Friday.
Saturday Morning i started down the path of getting brakes on the axle, Not having a real plan {why better kits to do this dont exist is odd,ECGS sells one but it looks very homemade} I decided to have two factory Explorer passenger side hoses (RAYBESTOS BH380528) on hand as they seemed the most "universal". I was lucky to be working in a Larrys shop and he had some random leftovers from rigs past/present and he had a extended rear brake line (Quadratec brand but same as a Rough Country Part #: 89703) This would get me from the frame connection to the axle and split each direction.
Took a trip to O'Rileys and left with every length pre flared 3/16 brake line they stocked. This is what i came up with.
**Spoiler, this didn't work....**
Friday, @LBarr2002 and I set out to install the Artec Truss on my 8.8 (that he pulled from pull-a-part for me) and has been sitting im my shop since like 2015....
I prepped the 8.8 by removing all the brackets in advance. We put the axle on a table and preheated and welded the Tubes to the Center Section. We wrapped them in fire blankets and a heavy moving blanket to let them cool slowly.
Them while the axle was cooling, we extracted the Turdy5 and all control arms. (Full adjustable Metal Cloaks would be going back in)
We assembled the Artec truss, and man, is that one slick piece of engineering.
Got it all fitted (minor trimming needed). We then tack welded the truss to the tubes enough for a test fit
Test Fit was fine, no real issues. Back on the table for final welding being certain to move around and not put too much heat in one location.
Coat of paint, and let it dry. We pretty much left it at that for Friday.
Saturday Morning i started down the path of getting brakes on the axle, Not having a real plan {why better kits to do this dont exist is odd,ECGS sells one but it looks very homemade} I decided to have two factory Explorer passenger side hoses (RAYBESTOS BH380528) on hand as they seemed the most "universal". I was lucky to be working in a Larrys shop and he had some random leftovers from rigs past/present and he had a extended rear brake line (Quadratec brand but same as a Rough Country Part #: 89703) This would get me from the frame connection to the axle and split each direction.
Took a trip to O'Rileys and left with every length pre flared 3/16 brake line they stocked. This is what i came up with.
**Spoiler, this didn't work....**
Last edited:
8.8 Project
To get the brake hoses to point in the proper direction the blocks where precision eyeballed and milled to allow them to be re-indexed.
With a completed brake system and a extra hand from @scribzilla we maneuvered the axle in place.
This is where the photos stop, for the most part.
While doing the 8.8 Swap i went ahead and sprung for a set of Metal Cloak fully adjustable control arms, This made lining up the holes, centering the axle much easier, and bracket to axle alignment less critical. We pushed the axle just past center to the rear and the driveshaft, trackbar, diff cover etc clear without any issues. This only left two problem areas, Swaybar and Brake lines. The Shocks ran into the junction points from the brake lines (who saw that coming?) and the Swaybar hit the top of the center section where they have a case protector for the ABS sensor. The center section just needs some clearancing to allow the swaybar to fit over it. The brakes would take some rework. This is what i came up with (no photos)
Brake line modifications rev. 1.1 - MS Paint style.
I ended up useing a 12 inch hard line, cut down and formed to about 10 inches on the driver side, and a 40 inch cut down to about 30 on the passenger side.
The brakes pads i ordered from rock auto were wrong. Apparently there are 2 different sizes used on the explorer 8.8, a small and large size pad. Mine uses the larger 2002 sized brake pad.
Running JK Rubicon wheels, the 1.25 wheel adapter from the 35 was wide enough however a 2 inch spacer is really needed. Those have been ordered from https://wheeladaptersusa.com/
I got lucky to find a Limited Slip 3.73 Geared axle, So it matches the front i have a used SOLID differ cover to be installed once i repair the stripped Drain Plug. It will get a fluid change when the new cover goes on.
That about sums it up. Drove it home Sunday night. Id say this was a weekend project, never really got in a hurry We stretched it over 3 days but could have easily been completed in 2 solid days.
To Do
Parking Brakes
Sway Bar
Change Cheese Grade Pinion Bolts
Locktite New Wheel Adapters
Diff cover
Fluid Change
To get the brake hoses to point in the proper direction the blocks where precision eyeballed and milled to allow them to be re-indexed.
With a completed brake system and a extra hand from @scribzilla we maneuvered the axle in place.
This is where the photos stop, for the most part.
While doing the 8.8 Swap i went ahead and sprung for a set of Metal Cloak fully adjustable control arms, This made lining up the holes, centering the axle much easier, and bracket to axle alignment less critical. We pushed the axle just past center to the rear and the driveshaft, trackbar, diff cover etc clear without any issues. This only left two problem areas, Swaybar and Brake lines. The Shocks ran into the junction points from the brake lines (who saw that coming?) and the Swaybar hit the top of the center section where they have a case protector for the ABS sensor. The center section just needs some clearancing to allow the swaybar to fit over it. The brakes would take some rework. This is what i came up with (no photos)
Brake line modifications rev. 1.1 - MS Paint style.
I ended up useing a 12 inch hard line, cut down and formed to about 10 inches on the driver side, and a 40 inch cut down to about 30 on the passenger side.
The brakes pads i ordered from rock auto were wrong. Apparently there are 2 different sizes used on the explorer 8.8, a small and large size pad. Mine uses the larger 2002 sized brake pad.
Running JK Rubicon wheels, the 1.25 wheel adapter from the 35 was wide enough however a 2 inch spacer is really needed. Those have been ordered from https://wheeladaptersusa.com/
I got lucky to find a Limited Slip 3.73 Geared axle, So it matches the front i have a used SOLID differ cover to be installed once i repair the stripped Drain Plug. It will get a fluid change when the new cover goes on.
That about sums it up. Drove it home Sunday night. Id say this was a weekend project, never really got in a hurry We stretched it over 3 days but could have easily been completed in 2 solid days.
To Do
Parking Brakes
Sway Bar
Change Cheese Grade Pinion Bolts
Locktite New Wheel Adapters
Diff cover
Fluid Change
Last edited:
HOLY SMOKES @rolledxj told me these metal cloak arms would change the way my jeep rode/handled and i always blew it off but DAMN its like i have a new jeep. I think @LBarr2002, told me the same thing but.... I swapped the fronts in yesterday as well as clearanced the rear swaybar to fit. My only complaint is that it feels like the joints/arms might transfer a little more road "noise/vibration" into the wheel/cab.
<Sway Bar Clearancing>
Now on to my front axle, Im undecided what to do. I have dibs on a heavily built HP30 front axle when the current owner goes to JK axles, but i really need to at a minimum get a locker into my axle by April. Its a 130k axle that the only thing i've ever done to it is ujoints in the axles. So it probably needs unit bearings and ball joints and a fluid change. Do i throw a spartan style locker in what I have, or do i go down the route of looking for a HP30 and build it out? I really want to avoid re-gearing for now and know that a hp in 3.73 is going to next to impossible to find. My only hesitation is with a ratcheing style locker affecting my roadability. The jeep now rides so nice, i really dont wanna do anything to negatively affect it.
<Crappy Photos of Brakeline re-engineering>
The road to Moab contines (kinda feels like i finally have a reason to build this thing)
<Sway Bar Clearancing>
Now on to my front axle, Im undecided what to do. I have dibs on a heavily built HP30 front axle when the current owner goes to JK axles, but i really need to at a minimum get a locker into my axle by April. Its a 130k axle that the only thing i've ever done to it is ujoints in the axles. So it probably needs unit bearings and ball joints and a fluid change. Do i throw a spartan style locker in what I have, or do i go down the route of looking for a HP30 and build it out? I really want to avoid re-gearing for now and know that a hp in 3.73 is going to next to impossible to find. My only hesitation is with a ratcheing style locker affecting my roadability. The jeep now rides so nice, i really dont wanna do anything to negatively affect it.
<Crappy Photos of Brakeline re-engineering>
The road to Moab contines (kinda feels like i finally have a reason to build this thing)
When "Grandpa" from Grandpas Garage toured us around he was diligent about me not running my lockers unless I absolutely needed them. Said he has seen countless rigs spit ujoint caps and tear up steering knuckles riding around fully locked. If you run a lunch box locker out there I think this would be SUPER worth it. https://www.morris4x4center.com/ter...2GzRTYGR4VpWWoG1qVU4uxEUo32vFkVwaAtBLEALw_wcB
Its absolutely ridiculous how much traction you get out there. Its grippier than asphalt.
Its absolutely ridiculous how much traction you get out there. Its grippier than asphalt.
Picked up a 05-06 TJ/LJ Engine/Transmission Skid Plate used from a guy local off FB, I installed it with a couple mods required. Had to trim down the passenger side roll , add a clearance space for a rib on the factory cross member and drill some holes.
Installed my 2 inch wheel adapters on the rear, and nut/bolt checked everything. Found a upper control arm bolt hanging in by like 2 threads.....Whoops...
Installed my 2 inch wheel adapters on the rear, and nut/bolt checked everything. Found a upper control arm bolt hanging in by like 2 threads.....Whoops...
Last edited:
Moab Todo List (1/6/20) (Updated 2/10/2020)
- Inspect Unit Bearings (Replaced)
- Inspect Ball Joints (Tight No Play)
- Evaluate Beefier Steering
- 8.8 Diff Cover / Oil
- D30 Bumpercover add on / oil
- Bump Stops Front and Rear (Fronts Look OK)
- Address driveline vibs (Non Issue)
- Crank Position Sensor
- Oil/Air Filter Change
- Battery Terminal work (remove disconnect, clean up connections)
- Rear Seatbelts
- Spare Parts Bag
Last edited:
I was talking to @97TJGUZZY about some vibs i was getting after the 8.8 and control arm swap, its so minor its just enough for me to notice but not really relate to speed/coasting/etc so i couldn't really give him any feedback.
I started to pay attention, seems the vibes start around 20mph and go to about 40 mph under accel and coasting. I know the drive line angle isnt going to ever be perfect, but curious if my situation seems like a driveshaft balance issue, or something else. Any Thoughts? Its possible im just feeling extra road noise now.
I started to pay attention, seems the vibes start around 20mph and go to about 40 mph under accel and coasting. I know the drive line angle isnt going to ever be perfect, but curious if my situation seems like a driveshaft balance issue, or something else. Any Thoughts? Its possible im just feeling extra road noise now.