Done! And with very little vibes (back to same or better than originally).
The body lift, MML, and skid I posted a few weeks ago were cake. The LoPro mount and engine skid were a bitch and a half. The LoPro is definitely not a bolt on. The instructions say it won't work with the High-Clearance skid, but it didn't mention the "original extra clearance" which is what I have. I messaged UCF and they said most of the bent leading edge would have to be trimmed.
I mounted the skid, marked the edges of the trans pan, took it back down, and cut 1" off the front and rounded the edges. Then from the inside, ground it flush with the inside of the skid. This clears with plenty of room.
The LoPro instructions talk about you may or may not have to change the catalytic converter mount that is attached to the transmission mount plate. Without modifying it, the pipe that wraps around the oil pan was sitting hard on the right front upper control arm mount. (This most likely was an issue with the stock mount, but I didn't notice). If I would have cut the mount the way the instructions describe, it would have been too low and put the converter on the skid. I cut 3/4" out of the mount arm and re-welded it and it worked well. I don't understand UCF's design here. It seems to me that they could have made the mount replace the entire mount place for a minimal increase in price...
The engine skid... The instructions (or lack of instructions) suck... I finally realized they had another picture on the website that showed a better angle. I did have to grind the ends of one of the mounting struts though. Also, it fits so tight to the trans pan that one of the nylok nuts that attach the engine skid to tcase skid touched the trans pan. I swapped it out for a standard nut. The engine skid fits very tight, too tight. I don't see where it would have hurt to give a little more clearance in a few places.
When I did the MML, I tightened the through bolts down too much and had a lot of vibrations. I backed them off and double nutted them just to be safe.
With the LoPro mount, it basically made everything come up 1" (body, motor, driveline). Without the LoPro, the tcase comes up probably 2" and throws angles off. One thing I was concerned with was the tcase shifter linkage. So many threads say you should just go ahead and buy the cable shifter because it's going to bind... I never touched the linkage. Didn't even unhook it from the body while doing the body lift. Since everything moved up the same amount, it works perfectly.
I have very minimal driveline vibes with 2" lift, the belly up, and no SYE.
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issed: If I held downward pressure on the relay the turn signals and flashers would work. When you let go, no more worky.