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Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#41
#41
Well....
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Guess theres no turning back now. Got bored tonight and started torching off the passenger side mounts. Was a little to dark out so i stopped.

Also picked up some DOM for my uppers and panhard from David. Scooped up the brackets and 2 3/4 heims from Nick for my panhard, as well as a 2x4 sheet of .25 plate for my truss's and whatever else i decide to build with it. Sure wish i had a break and a shear handy, i havent decided how i'm going to cut that plate up.
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Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#42
#42
Didn't get as much as i had wanted done this weekend but i still made a good bit of progress. Got all the rear mounts cut off and started on the grinding part which im hating. Got a little happy with the torch and going to have to patch a couple spots on my frame where i decided to blow a hole in :D I hate being so far away from it because i have limited amount of time working on it, and this weekend i had to build a 3rd leg for my dads table saw, and went over to dingo's where him an marcus were mounting his hydro assist ram.

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Started building my upper links for the rear when i ran out of time. I'm using 1.75 .120 for my upper with about 1" 1.5 .120 welded into the end to act like a bung so my inserts will work. Still deciding on a few things but hope to get everything finalized before i go back to work on it. Looking at probably getting a Body lift just to get a little more room. I was thinking of maybe trying to make my own if i could find some solid stock somewhere and then cutting/milling it down. Any thoughts? How wide are the body mount pucks?

If not I may just order zone offroads 1.25" or rokmen's .5" BL which are both around $100.
 
Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#45
#45
I can get the jks 1.25 plus 1" mml for about $200. I don't really want to put that much bl on it but that would give me a lot more room to mount my uppers as its freaking tight up there already. JKS are all metal and pretty top quality, if I one day decide to mill them down, I can unlike plastic ones.

I shortened my rear lowers yesterday and tacked them together just need to finish burning them in and cleaning them up. Couldnt get the snap rings out so i left the joints together, when i tacked up the first one the heat was up a little to much and the bushing melted in the jj, boiling out where the grease fitting is. Luckily i have a replacement at home. Would like to figure out a way to tuck my upper frame mounts up as high as possible, I don't see my fronts getting caught on much hanging down but I know my rear will be like big speed bumps. Heading home tomorrow to try and get some work done.
 
06TJX

06TJX

#46
#46
Did JKS change thier BL kit? It used to be polyrubber (that is what I have). They are not the hard plastic like most others, and flex and absorb vibrations pretty well.
 
Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#47
#47
It's very possible that im retarded and can't remember that they are in fact poly, I'll double check. Rokmen I know are metal but only come in .5" which could be efficient enough for my needs, but at $99 I figured I'd pay $40 more and get .75" and turn it down if I felt it needed to be.
 
Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#49
#49
The JKS is poly i dont know why i thought it wasnt. I ended up placing an order for the rokmen .5" bodylift. Should give me enough room for clearance and what not that i need.
 
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97TJGUZZY

97TJGUZZY

SUPPORTER
#50
#50
a 1/2" body lift? I know without my 1" body lift I wouldnt be able to have the uptravel I do in the rear. The uppers would hit the tub in the rear footwell area.
 
Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#52
#52
Lord no, I paid $99. There all metal which I liked. If they don't work or I dont like them I'll either send em back or sell em. My uppers arms are a good bit shorter then yours at 28" and my rear axle will be pushed back I'll make it work, I've seen it done without the bodylift. If not then you can say I told you so.

If i decide I need some clearance more then i will have, i'll do something along these lines. Simple and easy with the benefit of getting more ish out of harms way.
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=BMT2001
 
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Steve97tj

Steve97tj

SUPPORTER
#53
#53
Got my expensive pieces of metal in the other day and after looking at it I think it's gonna be exactly what I wanted with it. Plan on throwing it on next weekend and finish grinding rear, also found PVC to mock up rear uppers to determine length.

Been kicking around the idea for awhile of running a g54/ax5 hybrid tranny to be able to run duals. It seems fairly simple but I know of one rebuilt ready to bolt in for $300 ad yota cases are cheaper then a 300 in most cases, and I don't want to be stuck with just 4:1 where an ultimate yota dual would have 2.?/4.7, eventually but probably stock for time being. Would be different then you'd normally see and cheaper then a 231/300, no front dig but I'm ok with that. Any thoughts?

I can't remember what steered me away from it at one time but I'm thinking it may be shorter then the regular ax5 in it. Id need to run a psd axle, and have found some for fairly cheap (50-75 dollars) JR has a fw 44 housing I thought about picking up to chop it to waggy length then stripping the axle I haves shafts and knuckles to run. Why go through the trouble of chopping the axle instead of finding a psd waggy 44? Mainly just to do it for the experience as I have the resources to do it and do it right (shop at school) I've always wanted to do chop one for some reason and would like to build a steering 70 some time.
 
matth_85

matth_85

SUPPORTER
#57
#57
I have a Toyota housing and all needed parts to put it back togather. Ill do ya right if you decide to go that route. You can find stuff for them cheap these days on pirate it seems.
 
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