Joined the RedTJ club... Kinda

[LBarr2002]

Alot of work got done today to end up with axle back where it started.

It started off slow trying to swap the yoke. I didn't have the right size socket (1 5/16) so I ran up to TSC and got one in 3/4 drive. I come home and can't find my 1/2 to 3/4 adapter so I call @Twilliamson to see if he had one. He reminds me that I brought him a socket and adapter to remove his pitman arm. Guess what size that was. No problem, now I have one for my truck bag.

Then my impacts (electric or air) wouldn't budge the nut and I couldn't hold the flange. Had to raid the bolt stash for some m8 1.25 and make a spanner.



Then on to removal of broken axle.


And test fit of new axle. This truss is so nice. It was easier to get the bolts in than getting them out of the old axle. I'm going to cut the upper spring mounts out and level them.


Then back out and on stand for much more welding.


I came up and ordered a set of crown extended lines to get the rear. I had one but must have gotten rid of it at some point. And I ordered some brackets that I hope are going to work for the ebrake cables. I have a Metalcloak adjustable trackbar on the way as well so I'm going to finish welding, put it back in for final touches, then out again to paint.

 

[LBarr2002]

All this work for it to look just like it did before 🤣.


It'll have to come out one more time after trackbar, ebrake, and brake lines are here.

Coil buckets adjusted.


I might have to go see what @Twilliamson has for wider spacer adapters for the front.

 

[97TJGUZZY]

looks great, hopefully the front is just as easy. Did you have to trim the track bar mount to clear the fuel lines like you mentioned?

 

[LBarr2002]

looks great, hopefully the front is just as easy. Did you have to trim the track bar mount to clear the fuel lines like you mentioned?

Front will not be as easy. There's no provision for the track bar because otk or stock steering changes it. I'll probably invite you over for consultation and GTA when front time comes.

I haven't trimmed the track bar mount yet, but I will after the metalcloak gets here and I decide which hole.

 

[97TJGUZZY]

that works, we need a work day on @Twilliamson jeep as well!

 

[LBarr2002]

Motivation was at an all time low today and got a slow start with having to hunt down hardware and buy a line wrench, but more progress was made.

I mocked up everything and pulled axle back out. I used the ebrake cable tabs from the JK axle and welded them to the LCA mount. I didn't get a picture of that but will tomorrow if that works out.

I pulled the hard lines off the LJ axle and with some minor adjustment they fit pretty well on the jk axle. I used an extended frame to axle line to let me mount the splitter on the back of the truss.






I cleaned up in preparation for painting then realized I hadn't put the axle tie down points on so had to pull the welder back out.


Letting the paint dry overnight and tomorrow it goes back in.

 

[LBarr2002]

I drove it! I actually don't mind the 4.10s but I think 4.88s are going to be better in the long run. Also more expensive but less time consuming right now instead of trying to get the front 44 in before Kentucky. So, calling @jimbo92 tomorrow to get it in for gears.

@97TJGUZZY commented earlier that these trusses are cheating, and they really are. The only changes I made was cutting down the top of the track bar bracket and drilling holes to run the ebrake cables through the lca bracket. The original LJ brake lines laid on place almost like they were made for it. The LJ ebrake cables are longer than they need to be, but I crossed them from the original orientation and it worked out.

 

[LBarr2002]

Between Monday night and today at lunch I routed the locker wire and wired it up. For now I'm just using the output of the ARB switch to go to the elocker. I ran a dedicated always hot 10A supply behind the dash that I'll switch to once I decide if the ARB compressor is staying or not.

ECGS shafts and crush sleeve eliminator came in today and @jimbo92 ordered gears. Almost there!

 

[97TJGUZZY]

sounds like it will surely be ready for the KAT. NICE!!

 

[LBarr2002]

Forgot to post here. Jim and Brad got the rear gears and shafts taken care of at quality offroad.



I measured a stock tj44 and stock JK44 shaft just for kicks. Right at the bearing they are approximately the same but the JK is significantly beefier at the splines.



JK



TJ

 

[LBarr2002]

After I lightly pressure washed under the hood a few weeks ago, it started setting knock sensor codes every drive cycle. Definitely the front one that was bad.

 

[LBarr2002]

Oscar was rough on the LJ this year. Some body damage, leaky diff, and a loud new rattle. It's been in timeout since return, but pulled it out to get ready for the 1.9 mile drive to breakfast tomorrow.

First, the battery was dead. Then I found the rattle and did one of the things I hate the most, welding on my back under a vehicle. The mount for the front of my oil pan skid broke.





Then I needed to do the break in gear change and since it leaked I figured it was a good time.


No Mess... LIES!


The steering wheel is also not centered anymore. Toe was perfect so must have bent the drag link. I left it alone.

 

[97TJGUZZY]

View attachment 24263

it says "less mess"

 

[LBarr2002]

View attachment 24263

it says "less mess"

Still lies.

 

[DanStew]

I used that stuff the other day and i didnt make a mess for me.

 

[LBarr2002]

I used that stuff the other day and i didnt make a mess for me.

Well, what had happened wuz...

Have you ever seen a kid with their first Capri Sun, when they squeeze the foil packet a little too hard when they put the straw in? I guess I was squeezing it when I pulled the seal off. I had gear oil UP MY NOSE!

 

[DanStew]

It is actually a pretty cool design. I was digging it. But I still like my 5 gallon bucket with pump. That makes it easy.

 

[LBarr2002]

I guess I never posted it, but at the KAT I had issues starting in the sub freezing temperatures. We ended up diagnosing as relays and thought it was fixed. Both mornings at Uwharrie (below freezing) it would start but had no throttle pedal. Unlike before clearing the code did not work. It just kept coming back. I let it run in camp around 30 minutes with the hood closed and heat on, cleared codes and it was good.

Something does not like the cold. I guess it wants a portable garage bubble and a heater when traveling.

I replaced the 3 ignition related relays with new Bosch ones. Hopefully good now.


I also found the limit of the front 30. At first I thought it was just an inner shaft but the shaft at the knuckle free spins on both ends. It's back in timeout until I decide to tear it apart.