hp44/9in with 39s?

#1
so it might be weird or maybe a bad idea to buy axles before a truck but i found a really good deal on a 44/9 combo out of a bronco and i know that what i want under the hardbody im looking for.

my question is this, id like to regear said axles to either 5.13 or 5.38, detroit the 44, weld the 9inch and run 39s. will a 44/9 combo hold this with say 100hp or less and approx a 4000-4500lbs truck or should i stay with 37s?
 
#2
35s... casey broke his 9" on 35 krawlers, and I have broken numerous 44 shafts on 35s. 37s your pushing it, 39s would be down right stupid
 
#6
yeah but arent the diffs only like 8inch i was thinking the 1/2 diffs w/ trussed housings would be fine? ive never really dealt with this and most ppl back home have mud trucks w/ 1/2 axles and 35s-46s so noone ever really worries about what they hold locked and under load like when your crawlin
 
#7
Depends on your driving style. Are you a lead foot? If you are conservative, i'd say run them. You can always upgrade when/if things break. Lockers will add much more stress. If you have an auto tranny you can get away with it a bit better. Would you do mud? or Rocks? Trail riding with mild obstacles? Mall crawling. Alot of variables. Some people can even break Dana 60s at will. Probably a soul searching question on how you will drive the rig.
 
#9
Depends on your driving style. Are you a lead foot? If you are conservative, i'd say run them. You can always upgrade when/if things break. Lockers will add much more stress. If you have an auto tranny you can get away with it a bit better. Would you do mud? or Rocks? Trail riding with mild obstacles? Mall crawling. Alot of variables. Some people can even break Dana 60s at will. Probably a soul searching question on how you will drive the rig.
haha im mean to my tows and id crawler and go muddin and my frontier pulls mall crawler duty for me. and lookin for a manual b/c i like pickin my gears... so lead foot for sure
 
#10
Depends on your driving style. Are you a lead foot? If you are conservative, i'd say run them. You can always upgrade when/if things break. Lockers will add much more stress. If you have an auto tranny you can get away with it a bit better. Would you do mud? or Rocks? Trail riding with mild obstacles? Mall crawling. Alot of variables. Some people can even break Dana 60s at will. Probably a soul searching question on how you will drive the rig.
the reason I skipped this question is because I saw him drive at the Mud bog...
 
#12
Then that is teh straight dope. :)

You will find problems with a heavy foot, it is much more destructive than any obstacle out there ;)
true that lol maybe i should look for a 60/14 bolt then? ive always wanted something on 40s+ anyways lol

either way for the 1st year or so of its life itll run ifs and 63 chevys with 33s because im also impatient lol
 
#13
What make of vehicle do you have? >100 hp and 4500lbs??? You got a 4 cylinder International Scout or something?? 5 speed or auto? That will be of consideration believe it or not. I wouldn't run bigger than 36's locked personally. I deal with a similar axle combination in my XJ (4.0,auto). The 9" I wouldn't worry so much about as long as you have an aftermarket "N" 3rd member case. I've ran up to 37's with stock shafts and have seen stock shafts handle 40's. The front be careful with tires over 36". The weak point will always be ball joints and U-joints no matter what you put in it. I rock crawl with a LP passenger side drop Chevy/Dodge 44 w/ 4.56's, old school Yukons, Lock rite, and junkyard Chevy flattops and mine is living on a hope and a prayer til a Chevy 60 magically appears under it one day.
:grin:
 
#14
What make of vehicle do you have? >100 hp and 4500lbs??? You got a 4 cylinder International Scout or something?? 5 speed or auto? That will be of consideration believe it or not. I wouldn't run bigger than 36's locked personally. I deal with a similar axle combination in my XJ (4.0,auto). The 9" I wouldn't worry so much about as long as you have an aftermarket "N" 3rd member case. I've ran up to 37's with stock shafts and have seen stock shafts handle 40's. The front be careful with tires over 36". The weak point will always be ball joints and U-joints no matter what you put in it. I rock crawl with a LP passenger side drop Chevy/Dodge 44 w/ 4.56's, old school Yukons, Lock rite, and junkyard Chevy flattops and mine is living on a hope and a prayer til a Chevy 60 magically appears under it one day.
:grin:
well i dont have it yet but im working on building a nissan hardbody with a 4cylinder or v6 and 5sp and the last 1 i had was heavy and by the time its fully boxed and has bumpers it should be probably about 4000lbs maybe more
 
#16
holy crap! im locked on a rear 44 w/ 33s and a 6000ish lb truck and beat on em and the dont break!
The rubicon has OE lockers, 33's, and weighs in at 5000#. Alloy USA has replaced all of the shafts at one time or another, not to mention the drive shafts and ball joints that I have killed over the years. It's all in what your limit is really.
 
#17
The rubicon has OE lockers, 33's, and weighs in at 5000#. Alloy USA has replaced all of the shafts at one time or another, not to mention the drive shafts and ball joints that I have killed over the years. It's all in what your limit is really.
my frontier has an OE rear locker and weighs probably close to 6000lbs and has 33s and ive never come close to breaking it. is it just the rubi axles b/c chad broke his on 33s too?
 
#19
Run something lighter like waggys with 37s. Throw chromos in when you can. Im sure you can break them but I would think you would be able to keep them alive with a low hp, somewhat lighter rig with enough gearing.
 
#20
if its a v6 id run the waggy axle but i dont wanna run the c200 (stock 4 cylinder axle) so id swap both then

and on a side note who builds a good cage in SC? if its SAS the way i drive itll get flipped sooner or later... maybe even while its ifs...
 
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