RedAF Truck/SUV/SUT thing...
- Thread starter LBarr2002
- Start date
$35. There's some no name brands as cheap as $20.
DZ43100 Tailgate Assist fits 99-06 Chevy/GMC & 07 Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PW9ZUI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VNKS7JMK9ZSK7KE6BZ4T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
DZ43100 Tailgate Assist fits 99-06 Chevy/GMC & 07 Classic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PW9ZUI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VNKS7JMK9ZSK7KE6BZ4T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Last convenience upgrade for a while, at least until radio prices come back down. I swapped the rear cover panels for the BAK772108 tri fold tonneau, very similar to the Undercover Flex I had on the blue truck.
The instructions were not for an Avalanche, the rails were mislabeled side to side, but we got it installed.
The factory panels sealed fine, but the separate panels and latches on both sides were very hard to deal with. You have to get in and out of the bed to remove the 2nd and 3rd panels and you have to store them somewhere when the bed is open.
The instructions were not for an Avalanche, the rails were mislabeled side to side, but we got it installed.
The factory panels sealed fine, but the separate panels and latches on both sides were very hard to deal with. You have to get in and out of the bed to remove the 2nd and 3rd panels and you have to store them somewhere when the bed is open.
The "Travalanche" did exactly what we bought it for this weekend. Instead of taking multiple vehicles we put the camper behind it and it exceeded all expectations. On the optional offroad trail, we drug the trailer hitch and had a little tire rub when it flexed. I was concerned I had hit the trailer plug that hangs down. We got away with it this time but will be addressed like I did with a 7 and 4 way plug set in the bumper like I did the 2500.
Also needs a little wheel spacer. It really just needs enough to keep the tires out of the inner fenders, but I think a 1.25" spacer would work well. I need to check the stud length to figure out my options.
Also needs a little wheel spacer. It really just needs enough to keep the tires out of the inner fenders, but I think a 1.25" spacer would work well. I need to check the stud length to figure out my options.
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I dont have any concerns with hub centric spacers and a little blue lock tite on the studs. The majority of "6x5.5 spacers" out there are not hub centric though. I'm only finding a few 1.5" or 2" ones. The 1.5" would probably be ok but I think the lugs are too long and I'm not really looking to cut the tips off the studs...
Could get some fancy new wheels...
Could get some fancy new wheels...
Well I have my first 4L60e goes PNNNNNN situation...
Not unexpected with 189k and not knowing the history, just lucky it happened in the yard. We towed the camper to Clemson 2 months ago and drove it to Virginia 3 weeks ago with no issues. One day last week I pulled past my garage to back in and it flared and hard shifted to reverse. Saturday I drove around the back of the house to load trash and got back in and it wouldn't move. Shut off and restart and it will move for a little bit then stop again. I got it back in the garage and it'll go for a 4l65e spec rebuild in the next couple weeks.
Not unexpected with 189k and not knowing the history, just lucky it happened in the yard. We towed the camper to Clemson 2 months ago and drove it to Virginia 3 weeks ago with no issues. One day last week I pulled past my garage to back in and it flared and hard shifted to reverse. Saturday I drove around the back of the house to load trash and got back in and it wouldn't move. Shut off and restart and it will move for a little bit then stop again. I got it back in the garage and it'll go for a 4l65e spec rebuild in the next couple weeks.
No warning before the flare and hard shift earlier in the week. These still use a cable and crank arm to select the gear so they're not fully electronic where a faulty switch would cause it. It could be switches/solenoids within the valve body, but it was making a strange noise from the bell housing area I noticed as I was getting back in it, when I put it in drive and didn't move. My guess is pump issues, but I'll talk to the trans guy. At this mileage it would not make sense to go through the labor of pulling it and not rebuild/upgrade.
It was a full rebuild with upgrades. New planetary, upgraded clutches, etc. He pulled the old planetary out of the scrap bin to show me. I should have taken a picture. The planetary housing is supposed to have a raised lip and it was ground down to probably 1/16" recess.
I'm just glad that it was an obvious failure and not one of those we'll just rebuild and hope.
I'm just glad that it was an obvious failure and not one of those we'll just rebuild and hope.
Even though this trans failure had nothing to do with heat, I have a tendency to over think and over do.
Step 1, monitoring:
The cluster had a few backlights out so I sent it off for rebuild and addition of trans temp gauge.
Step 2, prevention:
These all (I think) have a trans cooler in the radiator. A lot of them have a small auxiliary cooler in front. This one did not, so putting the same massive cooler I put on the 2500 on it.
Step 1, monitoring:
The cluster had a few backlights out so I sent it off for rebuild and addition of trans temp gauge.
Step 2, prevention:
These all (I think) have a trans cooler in the radiator. A lot of them have a small auxiliary cooler in front. This one did not, so putting the same massive cooler I put on the 2500 on it.
I tackled the trans cooler today. If the truck came with a factory aux cooler (like the 2500 and Burgundy's 1500) this install is easy peasy. Without factory cooler, not so much. I'm not sure why a z71 tow package 4.10 didn't have an aux cooler but here we are.
These brackets use the factory hardware, but since this one didn't have the cooler the top holes were just open. I can't remember if they were threaded on the 2500 or just had nut clips on it, but I set a couple 1/4 20 nutserts.
Now to the hoses... The kit comes with a compression fitting and you can just cut the factory hose, spin it 180 degrees, and it all fits. Since my truck only had the trans to radiator and radiator to trans, I went to Oriellys and bought a factory replacement radiator to aux cooler and aux cooler to trans line.
I see why people just use braided hose and make lines when doing this. To get the old radiator to trans line out I ended up cutting it in 3 pieces. Since that isn't an option installing the replacement cooler to trans line, it took lots of cussing and me under guiding and twisting the hose and Burgundy pushing to get it in the right place.
I forgot to take a pic before I snapped the grill back in, but its done. Now she's ready if she gets called in for tow duty.
These brackets use the factory hardware, but since this one didn't have the cooler the top holes were just open. I can't remember if they were threaded on the 2500 or just had nut clips on it, but I set a couple 1/4 20 nutserts.
Now to the hoses... The kit comes with a compression fitting and you can just cut the factory hose, spin it 180 degrees, and it all fits. Since my truck only had the trans to radiator and radiator to trans, I went to Oriellys and bought a factory replacement radiator to aux cooler and aux cooler to trans line.
I see why people just use braided hose and make lines when doing this. To get the old radiator to trans line out I ended up cutting it in 3 pieces. Since that isn't an option installing the replacement cooler to trans line, it took lots of cussing and me under guiding and twisting the hose and Burgundy pushing to get it in the right place.
I forgot to take a pic before I snapped the grill back in, but its done. Now she's ready if she gets called in for tow duty.