Project: Times are changing
- Thread starter 250f4life
- Start date
Been tryin to catch up on the maintenance and still has along ways to go, been trying to use OEM stuff. All the cruiser guys think that's the only way to go. I'm starting to see why. These things were $30k+ in 93.this one has 220k miles on all original hoses, plug wires, rotor and looks like belts. I've been collecting a few parts little by little. OEM valve cover gasket, OEM radiator hoses, new OEM a/c pulley. Complete front end rebuild kit. New OEM air filter. Toy parts are alittle more but seems the guy behind the counter is starting to realize ill shop other dealerships if I have to so he's mentioned a few bucks off some things. I think the super budget oriented mechanic is the demise of a lot of vehicles. I'm guilty of it to, calling multiple parts stores looking for the cheapest water pump/alt/starter/ps pump. Sacrificing quality and longevity to save a few bucks.
Also have some G2, 5.29's that will get installed next week I hope. I like the idea of a 10 year warranty.
Also have some G2, 5.29's that will get installed next week I hope. I like the idea of a 10 year warranty.
Getting ready for Tellcio this weekend. Being I'm driving it I'm bringing a few spare parts for piece of mind. Have a spare birf, lower link, upper link, front/rear driveshafts. The biggest thing concerning me with driving it is these things aren't plentiful in junk yards, and most parts store basically keep nothing in stock for them.
Finally getting around to installing the 5.29's. I've rebuilt my far share of toy front ends and this one takes the cake as far as being a mess. Both side axle seals have been gone for a very long time. I topped it off before going to Tellico and once I pulled the spindles fluid poured out of the knuckle.
Here's a list of things you need when servicing a toy front axle.
Brass hammer for the cone washers, a few good smacks on the hub body will free them up, make sure and keep your hand in front of them because they can rocket across the shop.
12mm socket for the hub bolts.
14mm socket for the spindle bolts.
17mm socket for the brake caliber.
A small flat chisel for the 54mm socket lock ring
54mm socket to get the hub body off the spindle.
Have the trans/transfer case in neutral so you can spin the axle shaft around to the flat sides on the birfield.
This pic is compliments of the HNIC at the Nation Off-road Racercar bouncer building Stabin Cabin.
Here's a list of things you need when servicing a toy front axle.
Brass hammer for the cone washers, a few good smacks on the hub body will free them up, make sure and keep your hand in front of them because they can rocket across the shop.
12mm socket for the hub bolts.
14mm socket for the spindle bolts.
17mm socket for the brake caliber.
A small flat chisel for the 54mm socket lock ring
54mm socket to get the hub body off the spindle.
Have the trans/transfer case in neutral so you can spin the axle shaft around to the flat sides on the birfield.
This pic is compliments of the HNIC at the Nation Off-road Racercar bouncer building Stabin Cabin.
I have a set of hubs for it, I'm going to see if they will fit when I put the front back together. The big deal is this transfer case is full time. It's kinda like a limited slip, if you unlock one of the wheels in the front it will not move. That is until you push the CDL (center diff lock) switch. Then it locks the transfer case solid. Almost like having an elocker transfer case. Not all vehicles came with the CDL switch factory installed but the wiring is in the dash on all of them. I picked up the CDL switch from the dealership for $70.
