BlueAF Gladiator Build
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So Wednesday I called the dealer to confirm that they had the owners manual required oil meeting the MS 12991 spec and they confirmed they had the filter and oil. I dropped it off yesterday morning and when i picked it up, the receipt shows that they used T6... Time to call them back.
The mopar part number for oil above is for Shell Rotella T6, which is a high quality oil about half the price of the mopar required oil, it just doesnt meet the low Soot spec for the 3rd gen Ecodiesel.
This morning I called the parts department and gave them my VIN saying i wanted to buy the oil and filter for my truck that the owners manual calls for. They gave me the correct mopar numbers for the oil and filter. I asked if i could run any other oils in the truck. She said with the truck being a new diesel I MUST use the mopar oil thats recommended in the manual that meets all of the specs. I asked about part store oil that meets the spec and she said i should be using the correct MOPAR OIL 68231020AA or 68231021AA.
I said, ok thank you very much for your help.... I brought my truck in yesterday to your dealership for my first oil change and they did not use that oil, what do I do now? She litterally muttered "OH $H1T"...Let me call you back.
They called back and said bring it in and we will drain and refill that there is a new mopar part number and spec that they weren't aware of.
that would lead me to believe there are a lot of 3rd Gen EcoDiesel jeeps and Dodges that have the wrong oil sootin up all the fancy emissions gear.
The mopar part number for oil above is for Shell Rotella T6, which is a high quality oil about half the price of the mopar required oil, it just doesnt meet the low Soot spec for the 3rd gen Ecodiesel.
This morning I called the parts department and gave them my VIN saying i wanted to buy the oil and filter for my truck that the owners manual calls for. They gave me the correct mopar numbers for the oil and filter. I asked if i could run any other oils in the truck. She said with the truck being a new diesel I MUST use the mopar oil thats recommended in the manual that meets all of the specs. I asked about part store oil that meets the spec and she said i should be using the correct MOPAR OIL 68231020AA or 68231021AA.
I said, ok thank you very much for your help.... I brought my truck in yesterday to your dealership for my first oil change and they did not use that oil, what do I do now? She litterally muttered "OH $H1T"...Let me call you back.
They called back and said bring it in and we will drain and refill that there is a new mopar part number and spec that they weren't aware of.
that would lead me to believe there are a lot of 3rd Gen EcoDiesel jeeps and Dodges that have the wrong oil sootin up all the fancy emissions gear.
Have y'all ever walked into the service department and seen the guy who changes the oil? Every dealer I've ever worked at it's some dude with a shit box xj or old ranger making $10-$12 an hour being told he has 15 minutes to do an oil change. They don't give a fuuuuuuuuuu. Shortages have zero to do with it. Thank the OEMS for pushing rapid lube and low profit margins down the dealers throat. Dealers usually lose money on that service.
It does look like Amsoil has an updated label for this oil coming:
Full-SAPS Formula for European gasoline or diesel engines requiring VW 502.00, 505.00, BMW LL-01, Mercedes 229.3, 299.5, FCA MS-12991 & more. This product has a zinc content of 1100 ppm.
Classic ESP Synthetic 5W-40 package sizes include:
1- Quart Bottles (or buy case of 12)
1-US Gallon (or buy case of 4)
30- US Gallon Drum
55- USGallon Drum
Buy at wholesale in Canada or the United States. Request a price list using the contact form on this page.
Q&A article on Full-SAPS Euro 5W-40
Applications For European Formula FS 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
AMSOIL European Formula FS 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated to meet or exceed the following European gasoline or diesel performance specifications:
Full-SAPS Formula for European gasoline or diesel engines requiring VW 502.00, 505.00, BMW LL-01, Mercedes 229.3, 299.5, FCA MS-12991 & more. This product has a zinc content of 1100 ppm.
Classic ESP Synthetic 5W-40 package sizes include:
1- Quart Bottles (or buy case of 12)
1-US Gallon (or buy case of 4)
30- US Gallon Drum
55- USGallon Drum
Buy at wholesale in Canada or the United States. Request a price list using the contact form on this page.
Q&A article on Full-SAPS Euro 5W-40
Applications For European Formula FS 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
AMSOIL European Formula FS 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated to meet or exceed the following European gasoline or diesel performance specifications:
- Volkswagen 502.00, 505.00
- BMW LL-01
- Mercedes-Benz 229.5
- Porsche A40
- ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4
- Chrysler/FCA MS-12991 (product label addition pending)
- Renault 0710, 0700
- GM LL-B-025
- API SN/SM
some more fun times... this makes you question what the lesser of the two evils is.
"This will probably start a shit storm but...Rotella T-6 is an amazing oil. The reason it has not gotten the MS-12991 certification is because Shell has not pursued it and because they don't need it. They have far more business than they need without chasing the VERY limited Eco-Diesel market. Remember it cost MONEY to get API certifications. and it's all about the mighty dollar.
That being said, the most important component of the MS-12991 for these engines is ASH CONTENT, and the ash content of Rotella T-6 is the same as MS-12991. Ash is kryptonite for the DPF. Metallic and semi-metallic ash will not burn off in the regen process, when it will build-up and eventually plug/restrict flow.
Study the ash content of MS-12991 and look at competing oils and you'll be fine.
Another angle to consider is, ash is added for lubricity...better ash content, less friction, less wear. Lower ash, more friction, more wear BUT less particulates in the DPF. With stringent EPA rules/restriction, and to meet these requirements, manufactures are sacrificing engine longevity to meet clean air standards.
As far as Rotella T-6 causing failure of a turbo, I'm calling bullshit. Anyone with technical knowledge of turbo operation will agree...with two spinning wheels suspended by sleeve bearings and proper lubrication (not coking of course), a turbo will last the life of an engine. "
"This will probably start a shit storm but...Rotella T-6 is an amazing oil. The reason it has not gotten the MS-12991 certification is because Shell has not pursued it and because they don't need it. They have far more business than they need without chasing the VERY limited Eco-Diesel market. Remember it cost MONEY to get API certifications. and it's all about the mighty dollar.
That being said, the most important component of the MS-12991 for these engines is ASH CONTENT, and the ash content of Rotella T-6 is the same as MS-12991. Ash is kryptonite for the DPF. Metallic and semi-metallic ash will not burn off in the regen process, when it will build-up and eventually plug/restrict flow.
Study the ash content of MS-12991 and look at competing oils and you'll be fine.
Another angle to consider is, ash is added for lubricity...better ash content, less friction, less wear. Lower ash, more friction, more wear BUT less particulates in the DPF. With stringent EPA rules/restriction, and to meet these requirements, manufactures are sacrificing engine longevity to meet clean air standards.
As far as Rotella T-6 causing failure of a turbo, I'm calling bullshit. Anyone with technical knowledge of turbo operation will agree...with two spinning wheels suspended by sleeve bearings and proper lubrication (not coking of course), a turbo will last the life of an engine. "
I'm now remembering why i never let anyone work on my vehicles. We stayed at an Airbnb this weekend that had a nice new paved concrete parking area, when i pulled out to go hike Saturday i saw that there was a little oil spot already on it. I knew it couldn't be me... When i got home last night and parked in the driveway i saw that the jeep had left a nice little spot of oil on the concrete! I crawled underneath and it looks like either Michael J Fox poured the oil into the motor, or we have a leak somewhere now.... It was spotless under there before this oil change, now the axle and driveshaft are covered in motor oil. So not only did they put in the wrong oil, they did a shit job of doing it wrong.
I dropped it off yesterday at 7:30AM for them to fix the oil change mistake and determine the source of the leak and clean up the oil.... They called at 9 telling me the jeep was ready, and I said that I would be there around 5PM to pick up the truck. They assured me it has been fixed and cleaned up, he even hinted they may have a chance to wash the truck... So i go to pick it up at 5 and its not been washed on the outside, which i'm cool with, but it also had not been cleaned underneath at all. There was still puddled oil in the engine bay and everything had a film of oil on it just as it had when i dropped it off.... I tried to let them know that I wasn't there to be a Karen and just complain, but that I needed the truck to be in the same condition it was when i dropped it off at least... So they kept it again last night. I'm headed by at lunch to pick it up and they assured me that its good to go now.... I hope they are right. :Karen Rant Over: