Mean Green

VOLT

VOLT

#101
#101
The driveshafts should be ready tomorrow. With Harry not being there it took a little while to get on the same page but I believe we finally got there. They are building a new rear and re-tubing the front and adding a 1330 yoke. I was wrong earlier in the thread when I thought that my axles had 1350 yokes. I wanted to get rid of the conversion joints that I was running and I think the 1330's will be fine.

I am going to have to begin installing my shock towers and tabs without the shocks being here. I am only going to tack everything with hopes that when the shocks arrive, everything works out(yea right). I will get the compressed and extended lengths from ORIs website to figure placement and with the ride height being controlled simply by nitrogen pressure adjustment I should be able to adjust accordingly if need be, right? I was hoping someone could advise me as to whether I should mock up the towers at ride height or full bump? Hell, I guess I will need to just take a look at them in both positions to see if the angle changes. Either way I want to add another 1.5-2" of shaft so that I can go that much lower in the future when I have a real fuel cell and can notch the floor where the truss hits. The shocks are setup 5.5 up and 8.5 droop.
 
97TJGUZZY

97TJGUZZY

SUPPORTER
#102
#102
VOLT said:
The driveshafts should be ready tomorrow. With Harry not being there it took a little while to get on the same page but I believe we finally got there. They are building a new rear and re-tubing the front and adding a 1330 yoke. I was wrong earlier in the thread when I thought that my axles had 1350 yokes. I wanted to get rid of the conversion joints that I was running and I think the 1330's will be fine.

I am going to have to begin installing my shock towers and tabs without the shocks being here. I am only going to tack everything with hopes that when the shocks arrive, everything works out(yea right). I will get the compressed and extended lengths from ORIs website to figure placement and with the ride height being controlled simply by nitrogen pressure adjustment I should be able to adjust accordingly if need be, right? I was hoping someone could advise me as to whether I should mock up the towers at ride height or full bump? Hell, I guess I will need to just take a look at them in both positions to see if the angle changes. Either way I want to add another 1.5-2" of shaft so that I can go that much lower in the future when I have a real fuel cell and can notch the floor where the truss hits. The shocks are setup 5.5 up and 8.5 droop.
Click to expand...

I would set them up at full bump, but you want to make sure that through the swing of the axle the shocks dont contact the sides of the towers.
 
D

David D

#103
#103
I would also mock up at full bump and cycle the suspension out before making final decisions.

It sounds like you going to leave some shaft showing so you can lower it later? If so may want to look into doing a center bump stop. Keep the truss out of the floor, but still use all the up travel on flex.
 
97TJGUZZY

97TJGUZZY

SUPPORTER
#104
#104
David D said:
I would also mock up at full bump and cycle the suspension out before making final decisions.

It sounds like you going to leave some shaft showing so you can lower it later? If so may want to look into doing a center bump stop. Keep the truss out of the floor, but still use all the up travel on flex.
Click to expand...
avoid the center bumpstop as you can bend your housing pretty easy, but you can make them more inboard than your shocks which will help.
 
VOLT

VOLT

#105
#105
Theres a hair over 3 inches right now between the top of truss and the rear floor. I don't think its ever even hit since its such a low speed rig. The ORI's have a bump stop integrated although until I cut the floor they will be obsolete. I hope to have some time next weekend to really take some measurements and determine how much shaft to leave exposed to give me the 5.5 up once its lowered down as low as I can get it.
 
VOLT

VOLT

#106
#106
I was able to fight my way into getting 2 hours to work on Jeep today. I installed the rear driveshaft, it was spot on perfect. The angle does not appear to be too bad, especially with the rear coming down an inch soon.
008.jpg
These bolts at the flange dont seem to be tight though. On my old shaft, I had the same size bolts going through the tapped flange and then into a nylock. This flange is also tapped but no room for a nylock. The bolt does not seem to be quite tight enough in the threads as it will shimmy just a hair. Anyone know what size the factory Rubi flange had originally? These bolts were actually off of my factory trans mount. They thread in perfectly but just have a wiggle waggle to them. Ran out of time before I could even measure what size they were. Not a big deal for now, they may even be the right size.
The front shaft looks all fine and dandy although naturally when I went to install it, it was too long.
002.JPG
I gave my ride height measurements to CDL and they built the rear appropriately to fit with room for collapse and extend but the front is that exact same measurement when collapsed as my ride height measurement was. This left me absolutely no room to get it in without stretching the wheelbase a bit. I have already stretched it too far so thats out. I don't blame anyone but myself but I cant tell you how frustrating this is. I will send it back tomorrow to be shortened an inch. Heres where I tried to get it in. I just about had it in but thought that if its this hard to install then there is no way its not going to bind the suspension up. Is this correct? Its really just a hair, not even a centemeter short when I droop it out like the pic. If I removed the seal, I could make it work probably. Am I missing something here or does it need to go back for shortening?
003.jpg
004.jpg
After a cussing clinic witnessed by all my nosey *** neighbors I looked at Milller and saw that he was not worried about it, so I followed his lead and put all my tools up for the night.
006.jpg
 
Shilohsho

Shilohsho

#109
#109
If the shaft is too long to get in at ride height then it will be in a major bind when the suspension collapses (front tires touch fender lip). Therefor exploding your transfer case when pushing it towards the rear tires.
Good thing you are sending it back to get shortened!!

C'mawwn!!
 
VOLT

VOLT

#111
#111
Worked on this yesterday. I won't have the rear section tied into cage before Oscar although I will have it mounted to the tub and tied into the frame hopefully. I'm not saving any weight on this trip. I will be loaded up with spare parts and stuff. Hopefully alot of trail riding and less breakage.

Tirecarrier.jpg
 
VOLT

VOLT

#113
#113
Yea although I modified this toolbox to clean it up and cover it. I drilled holes for all the wires, vents and filler. I liked how it cleaned it up big time. You can see the box in this pic. I have more pics at home of it. I may give the box away if someone wants to move thier stock cell into the tub. It also deadens the fuel pump whine.
windrock4.jpg
 
cannonball

cannonball

1
SUPPORTER
#114
#114
Damn that's a pretty smart idea to keep things cheap. And yeah I need to do something to make this damn fuel cell quieter. It gets old hearing it hum with the full soft top on. With no top you can't even hear it though.
 
VOLT

VOLT

#116
#116
Finished the tire carrier install and got a new optima through work for $150. That's my price for any size or color if anyone needs one holla. Now it's down to installing the ORI's when they show up. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1363569578.833555.jpg
 
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