First time builder

Weldin Rod

Weldin Rod

#1
#1
This all started with a Christmas present from my awsome wife. She surprised me with this 2000 tj.
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This is the specs when I got it.
I think its about 5.5 inches of lift via 4" springs and adjustable coil spacers in the front and srings and spacers in the rear.
36x15.5 Baja MTZ's on 20"Fuel Hostage wheels.
G2 Dana 44 front axle with 456 gears and an OX locker
Stock dana 35 in the rear
Smitty Built front and rear bumpers.

Well this is my first build so I've already made some mistakes. Thats why I started this thread, so let the input and constructive critisism fly. My first mod was to regear the rear axle, but when I opened it up the spider gears were shot. So I put a Detroit Locker in it. Well you probaly know what happened next, yep broken axle shaft.
P1010033.jpg
So I put in some chromoly shafts and got some junk yard shafts for spares until I can fit an 8.8 in to the budget.
Heres what else I've done so far.
Sold the 20's and got some 35x12.5 and Craiger soft 8's.
SYE kit and CV drive shaft.
Warn 8000# winch.
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This is how it sits now.
 

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knobby97

knobby97

#3
#3
Did that TJ used to be for sale at that tire shop in lexington, near the san joses on 1? Cant remember the name of the place, but the color and those wheels that were on it when you go it look familiar. BTW, looks like your shop is pretty well outfitted for your first build.

Yeah, d35=a POS that is a waste of money and waste of time. Those things are set up for failure in stock form, so a locker is a sure way to grenade one. I've know guys to break the carriers driving over a curb to get into their driveway on 33s.

Next thing you might want to look at is the height of the springs/ACOS with short arms. Those arms have to be at a pretty nasty angle that is transferring all bumps and partial up travel straight into the frame. Do you have aftermarket control arms? Are they adjustable? Also, do you still need to run those wheels spacers that appear to still be on the axles?

So what all future plans do you have for the rig?
 
Weldin Rod

Weldin Rod

#5
#5
Yeah, It belong to Chad Dillion who owns County Tire. He sold me the wheels that are on it now. They are 4.5 offset, he told me they would work but they were to close on the rear. That's why the spacers are on there. I was wondering about the height, should I take the spacers out?
 
knobby97

knobby97

#6
#6
Weldin Rod said:
Yeah, It belong to Chad Dillion who owns County Tire. He sold me the wheels that are on it now. They are 4.5 offset, he told me they would work but they were to close on the rear. That's why the spacers are on there. I was wondering about the height, should I take the spacers out?
Click to expand...
yeah, you need around 3.75 offset. Taking the spacers out is up to your personal preference, but it should drive and handle better. Its normally a good idea to run short arm drop brackets or long arms for much of anything about 4"s on a TJ. Also with that height, and the rear short arms, it sucks your rear axle towards the front of the jeep. Thus reducing your wheel base and making it drive like a shopping cart. Judging by the pics you just posted it appears that you have at least adjustable lowers so you can either use those to adjust your pinion angle, or if you have adjustable uppers already then I would adjust the lowers out as far as I the uppers would let while still ensuring that the rear spring stays seated. You could also move the upper spring pad, as it appears you have at least a MIG setup and I couldn't tell what the other miller machine was, so moving it would be easy. You could also ditch the rear spacers if you went this route, as moving the bucket will give you more lift in the rear. Anyway, just my 2 cents.
 
Weldin Rod

Weldin Rod

#7
#7
knobby97 said:
yeah, you need around 3.75 offset. Taking the spacers out is up to your personal preference, but it should drive and handle better. Its normally a good idea to run short arm drop brackets or long arms for much of anything about 4"s on a TJ. Also with that height, and the rear short arms, it sucks your rear axle towards the front of the jeep. Thus reducing your wheel base and making it drive like a shopping cart. Judging by the pics you just posted it appears that you have at least adjustable lowers so you can either use those to adjust your pinion angle, or if you have adjustable uppers already then I would adjust the lowers out as far as I the uppers would let while still ensuring that the rear spring stays seated. You could also move the upper spring pad, as it appears you have at least a MIG setup and I couldn't tell what the other miller machine was, so moving it would be easy. You could also ditch the rear spacers if you went this route, as moving the bucket will give you more lift in the rear. Anyway, just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
I do have adjustable upper and lower front and rear. Good stuff to think about, thanks for the input.
 
97TJGUZZY

97TJGUZZY

SUPPORTER
#10
#10
Looks like you could take the spacers out of the rear coils and leave the front one in turned all the way down and it would handle and drive much better.
 
Weldin Rod

Weldin Rod

#11
#11
Yeah it is a little higher in the back,but I think once I put my spare,cooler and box of parts on it will level out. The ACOS are already adjusted all the way up in the front. It drives pretty good the way it is.
 
Weldin Rod

Weldin Rod

#18
#18
Scored some free metal from my old work and had them shear it for me. I made some panels to cover the holes in the rockers from the plastic pieces I took off.
I've got a 6"x 96"x.125 aluminium piece left over if anyone needs it for something. It was free so first come first serve.
P6270124 (2).jpg
P6270127.jpg
Here's that piece of aluminium
P6270123 (2).jpg
 
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